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Slim, straight, relaxed, or tapered? A comprehensive guide to denim cuts and how to measure for the perfect fit.
The best denim in the world won't look good if it doesn't fit properly. Unlike mass-market jeans, selvedge denim is an investment — taking time to find your ideal fit ensures you'll actually wear and enjoy your jeans for years.
Fit is personal. There's no "best" cut — only what works for your body type, style preferences, and lifestyle. This guide will help you understand the options and find what works for you.
Fitted through the thigh with a straight leg from knee to hem
Fitted
Moderate
6.5-7.5"
Fitted through the thigh with a taper from knee to a narrow leg opening
Fitted
Moderate
6-7"
Roomy through the thigh and seat with a taper to a moderate leg opening
Relaxed
Moderate
7-8"
Classic cut with consistent width from thigh to hem
Moderate
Moderate
8-9"
Generous room throughout with a wide leg opening
Relaxed
Wide
9-11"
The most reliable way to find your size is to measure a pair of jeans that fits you well. Lay them flat and use a fabric tape measure. Here are the key measurements:
Measure across the top of the waistband, laid flat, from edge to edge. Double this number.
💡 Raw denim stretches 0.5-1" in the waist. Size down accordingly.
From the top of the waistband to the crotch seam, measured along the front.
💡 Higher rise = more comfortable sitting. Low rise can feel restrictive.
From the top of the waistband to the crotch seam, measured along the back.
💡 Important for coverage and comfort. Should be 2-3" longer than front rise.
Measured 1" or 2" down from the crotch seam, across the leg laid flat.
💡 Critical measurement for athletic builds. Check brand's measurement point.
Measured 13" down from the crotch seam (or at the knee point), across the leg.
💡 Affects how the jeans stack and drape below the knee.
Measured across the bottom hem, laid flat. Double for circumference.
💡 Determines silhouette. Smaller = more tapered, larger = straighter.
From the crotch seam to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.
💡 Most raw denim comes 34-36". Plan to hem unless you're tall.
Raw (unwashed) denim behaves differently than pre-washed jeans:
One-wash denim has already shrunk, so what you measure is what you get. These are easier to size but offer less stretch potential.
Size down when:
Size up (or stay true to size) when: