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Finding Your Perfect Fit

By Updated · Published

Slim, straight, relaxed, or tapered? A comprehensive guide to denim cuts and how to measure for the perfect fit.

Why Fit Matters

The best denim in the world won't look good if it doesn't fit properly. Unlike mass-market jeans, selvedge denim is an investment - taking time to find your ideal fit ensures you'll actually wear and enjoy your jeans for years.

Fit is personal. There's no "best" cut - only what works for your body type, style preferences, and lifestyle. This guide will help you understand the options and find what works for you.

Common Fit Types

Slim Straight

Fitted through the thigh with a straight leg from knee to hem

Thigh:

Fitted

Knee:

Moderate

Leg Opening:

6.5-7.5"

Best for: Most body types, versatile styling
Example models: 3sixteen ST, Iron Heart 777, Pure Blue Japan XX-019

Slim Tapered

Fitted through the thigh with a taper from knee to a narrow leg opening

Thigh:

Fitted

Knee:

Moderate

Leg Opening:

6-7"

Best for: Those who prefer a modern silhouette with sneakers
Example models: 3sixteen CT, Japan Blue 0601, Naked & Famous Super Guy

Relaxed Tapered

Roomy through the thigh and seat with a taper to a moderate leg opening

Thigh:

Relaxed

Knee:

Moderate

Leg Opening:

7-8"

Best for: Athletic builds, comfort seekers, workwear aesthetic
Example models: OrSlow 107, Studio D'Artisan SD-108, TCB 50s

Straight

Classic cut with consistent width from thigh to hem

Thigh:

Moderate

Knee:

Moderate

Leg Opening:

8-9"

Best for: Traditional Americana look, boots
Example models: Levi's 501 STF, Warehouse 1001, Full Count 1108

Wide/Relaxed

Generous room throughout with a wide leg opening

Thigh:

Relaxed

Knee:

Wide

Leg Opening:

9-11"

Best for: Vintage aesthetic, maximum comfort
Example models: Kapital Century, OrSlow 105, Tender Type 130

How to Measure

The most reliable way to find your size is to measure a pair of jeans that fits you well. Lay them flat and use a fabric tape measure. Here are the key measurements:

Waist

Measure across the top of the waistband, laid flat, from edge to edge. Double this number.

💡 Raw denim stretches 0.5-1" in the waist. Size down accordingly.

Front Rise

From the top of the waistband to the crotch seam, measured along the front.

💡 Higher rise = more comfortable sitting. Low rise can feel restrictive.

Back Rise

From the top of the waistband to the crotch seam, measured along the back.

💡 Important for coverage and comfort. Should be 2-3" longer than front rise.

Thigh

Measured 1" or 2" down from the crotch seam, across the leg laid flat.

💡 Critical measurement for athletic builds. Check brand's measurement point.

Knee

Measured 13" down from the crotch seam (or at the knee point), across the leg.

💡 Affects how the jeans stack and drape below the knee.

Leg Opening

Measured across the bottom hem, laid flat. Double for circumference.

💡 Determines silhouette. Smaller = more tapered, larger = straighter.

Inseam

From the crotch seam to the bottom of the hem, along the inside of the leg.

💡 Most raw denim comes 34-36". Plan to hem unless you're tall.

Sizing for Raw Denim

Raw (unwashed) denim behaves differently than pre-washed jeans:

  • Waist: Will stretch 0.5-1" with wear. Size down if between sizes.
  • Thigh: Minimal stretch. Size for comfort here - you can't stretch the thigh.
  • Length: Will shrink 1-2" after first wash. Account for this when hemming.

One-wash denim has already shrunk, so what you measure is what you get. These are easier to size but offer less stretch potential.

Tips for Finding Your Fit

  • Visit a store: Nothing beats trying on multiple fits. Check our store directory.
  • Compare measurements: Use size charts and compare to your best-fitting jeans.
  • Consider your lifestyle: Desk job? Prioritize rise and thigh. Active? Look for relaxed fits.
  • Think about footwear: Boots work with wider leg openings; sneakers pair well with tapered cuts.
  • Don't force it: If a fit doesn't work for your body, try a different cut rather than sizing up/down.

When to Size Up vs. Down

Size down when:

  • Buying raw/unsanforized denim (it will stretch)
  • You're between sizes and prefer a slimmer look
  • The thigh measurement has room to spare

Size up (or stay true to size) when:

  • Buying one-wash or sanforized denim
  • You have athletic thighs
  • You prioritize comfort over a slim silhouette

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