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Chain stitch vs lock stitch, cuffing options, and finding the right inseam. Everything about getting your jeans tailored.
Most raw selvedge denim comes with a 34-36" inseam to accommodate various heights and allow for shrinkage. Unless you're quite tall, you'll likely need to hem your jeans or embrace cuffing/stacking.
The type of hem you choose affects both the look and the long-term character of your jeans. It's worth understanding your options before cutting.
The traditional method using a Union Special 43200G or similar machine. Creates a distinctive roping effect over time.
Standard sewing machine stitch. Creates a flat, clean hem without roping.
Preserving the original hem by shortening from the waist or using the 'Hollywood hem' technique.
Roping is the twisted, rope-like fade pattern that develops along a chain-stitched hem over time. It's caused by the slight puckering of the fabric created by the chain stitch tension.
This effect is highly prized in the denim community as a sign of quality construction and authentic wear. Lock stitch hems lay flat and don't develop this characteristic.
Before hemming, decide how you want to wear your jeans:
Many selvedge enthusiasts prefer cuffing over hemming. It's reversible, shows off the selvedge ID, and allows flexibility.
Height: 1-2 inches
Classic, clean look that shows off the selvedge ID
Works with: All leg openings, especially slim/tapered
Height: 2-3 inches total
More substantial look, good for hiding excess length
Works with: Straight and relaxed fits
Height: Varies
Rolled and tucked for a tapered look at the ankle
Works with: Straight cuts you want to look slimmer
Height: N/A — no cuff
Letting excess length bunch up above the shoe
Works with: Slim fits, creates accordion-like fade patterns
Not every tailor has a chain stitch machine. Here are your options:
Narrowing the leg from the knee down. Best done from the inseam to preserve the selvedge outseam. Expect to pay $30-50.
Taking in or letting out the waist. Limited adjustment possible (usually 1-2"). More complex than hemming.
Reinforcing or repairing the crotch area, which often wears out first. Darning or patching can extend the life of your jeans significantly.