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Hemming & Alterations Guide

By Updated · Published

Chain stitch vs lock stitch, cuffing options, and finding the right inseam. Everything about getting your jeans tailored.

Why Hemming Matters

Most raw selvedge denim comes with a 34-36" inseam to accommodate various heights and allow for shrinkage. Unless you're quite tall, you'll likely need to hem your jeans or embrace cuffing/stacking.

The type of hem you choose affects both the look and the long-term character of your jeans. It's worth understanding your options before cutting.

Hem Types Compared

Chain Stitch

The traditional method using a Union Special 43200G or similar machine. Creates a distinctive roping effect over time.

Pros
  • • Authentic vintage look
  • • Develops beautiful roping with wear
  • • Preferred by purists
  • • Matches original hem construction
Cons
  • • More expensive ($20-40)
  • • Harder to find
  • • Can unravel if thread breaks
Best for: Those who want the authentic selvedge experience and plan to wear their jeans for years

Lock Stitch

Standard sewing machine stitch. Creates a flat, clean hem without roping.

Pros
  • • Widely available
  • • Inexpensive ($10-20)
  • • Very secure - won't unravel
  • • Clean, modern look
Cons
  • • No roping effect
  • • Less authentic appearance
  • • Can look too clean on vintage-style denim
Best for: Those who prefer a clean look or need a quick, affordable hem

Original Hem

Preserving the original hem by shortening from the waist or using the 'Hollywood hem' technique.

Pros
  • • Keeps factory chain stitch
  • • Maintains original look
  • • Good for minimal shortening
Cons
  • • Complex alteration
  • • Expensive ($40-60+)
  • • Not all tailors can do it well
  • • May affect rise if shortened from waist
Best for: Vintage jeans or when you only need 1-2 inches removed

What is Roping?

Roping is the twisted, rope-like fade pattern that develops along a chain-stitched hem over time. It's caused by the slight puckering of the fabric created by the chain stitch tension.

This effect is highly prized in the denim community as a sign of quality construction and authentic wear. Lock stitch hems lay flat and don't develop this characteristic.

Finding the Right Length

Before hemming, decide how you want to wear your jeans:

  • No break: Hem hits right at the top of your shoe with no fabric bunching
  • Slight break: Small fold of fabric at the shoe - classic, versatile
  • Full break: Noticeable fold, more casual/relaxed look
  • Stacking: 2-4" extra length that bunches above the shoe

Measuring for Hem Length

  1. Wear the shoes you'll most often pair with the jeans
  2. Stand naturally - don't slouch or stand unnaturally straight
  3. Have someone mark where you want the hem to fall
  4. Account for 1-2" shrinkage if the jeans are unwashed
  5. When in doubt, leave them longer - you can always hem more later

Cuffing Options

Many selvedge enthusiasts prefer cuffing over hemming. It's reversible, shows off the selvedge ID, and allows flexibility.

Single Cuff

Height: 1-2 inches

Classic, clean look that shows off the selvedge ID

Works with: All leg openings, especially slim/tapered

Double Cuff

Height: 2-3 inches total

More substantial look, good for hiding excess length

Works with: Straight and relaxed fits

Pin Roll

Height: Varies

Rolled and tucked for a tapered look at the ankle

Works with: Straight cuts you want to look slimmer

Stacking

Height: N/A - no cuff

Letting excess length bunch up above the shoe

Works with: Slim fits, creates accordion-like fade patterns

Where to Get Chain Stitch Hemming

Not every tailor has a chain stitch machine. Here are your options:

  • Selvedge denim stores: Many offer free or discounted hemming with purchase. Check our store directory.
  • Mail-in services: Railcar Fine Goods, Indigo Proof, and others offer mail-in chain stitch hemming
  • Local denim specialists: Search for "chain stitch hemming" in your city

Other Common Alterations

Tapering

Narrowing the leg from the knee down. Best done from the inseam to preserve the selvedge outseam. Expect to pay $30-50.

Waist Adjustment

Taking in or letting out the waist. Limited adjustment possible (usually 1-2"). More complex than hemming.

Crotch Repair

Reinforcing or repairing the crotch area, which often wears out first. Darning or patching can extend the life of your jeans significantly.

Tips for Working with Tailors

  • Bring reference photos of the look you want
  • Ask if they have experience with raw/selvedge denim
  • Request they use matching thread color
  • Ask to keep the cut-off fabric (useful for repairs later)
  • Don't rush - good alterations take time

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